Scotland + Ireland

Jan 15

In 7th grade, I started to listen to a lot of Celtic music while doing my algebra homework. A love for music with a fiddle and Celtic tunes stuck with me. Fast forward to 2021, when my mom delved deep into our family history, uncovering that a significant part of our lineage traces back to the British Isles. This might explain my long-lived love for the traditional tunes of that region. So naturally, after discovering new portions of the family heritage, my mom, sister, and I planned a trip to explore the stunning and storybook-like ancient hills of Ireland and Scotland.

What followed was a 12-day road trip through rugged lands with striking coastlines and hills dotted with old castles. We had a fast-paced 12-day visit where we packed in as much as we could on this first visit. This trip served as a great introduction to this lovely part of the world, but if an opportunity arises for future trips, there are absolutely parts of the country I’d spend a little more time in such as the Isle of Skye in Scotland and the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland.

Please join me on a visual journey and a travel itinerary with recommendations based on experiences from my recent trip

General recommendations:

Pack a raincoat- The weather can be unpredictable, but that just adds to the adventure!
Embrace flexibility- You might find yourself exploring in a drizzle, but that’s when the landscapes truly shine.
Rent a car- There’s nothing like the thrill of navigating the winding roads on the ‘other’ side—it’s an adventure in itself!

Day 1: Edinburgh

If, like me, you're usually drawn to the tranquility of the countryside, Edinburgh's allure is still worth putting on your itinerary. The city has a dark and mystical charm about it with its old stone buildings and nearly always gloomy weather.

If you are a fast walker, you can cover a lot of ground in 6 hours in the country’s capital. While there were things we did not have time to do like hike to the top of the famed Arthur’s Seat to see the city from afar, I was still blown away by what I saw in the stroll around the city.

Recommendations for a quick stop in Edinburgh

Stroll, eat, and shop in Grassmarket Square and W Box Street! The history of this square is quite interesting and there is a great view of the castle
Stroll through Deans Village to see some quaint houses along a vibrant stream
Have a picnic or stroll through West Meadow Park
- While you are here stop at Uplands Roast Coffee for what I would consider a world-class hot chocolate to sip on during your walk

If you have more time, hike up Arthur’s seat and take an inside tour of the castle!

Day 2: Lithgow Palace + Stirling

When you depart the capital, turn your car north and head up towards Lithgow Palace, the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. By no means is this the nicest or most robust castle you could visit in Scotland, but the history and the views make it a perfect stop as you head north to Stirling and the Cairngorms. While the castle lacks a full restoration, there are great views from the tower windows of the sounding lochs. The castle itself is nestled in the town of Lithgow which has a handful of cute coffee shops if you need a treat to energize your day.

Once you have finished admiring the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots keep driving up the highway for 30 more minutes till you get to Stirling. The Stirling castle is home to well manicured gardens, great views of the the valleys and a well curated exhibits inside the refurbished castle. We spent about an hour and a half walking around the halls; we would consider this stop a must if you are in this region of Scotland.

Once you are done at Stirling get back in your car for the last stretch of the drive today. Keep on going up to the Cairngorms National Park area. There are a lot of smaller quaint towns to stay in, but if you can secure lodging in Aviemore you will be much closer to the main attractions. That might be the best bet as a place to stay to center yourself near the action. The Cairngorms have much to offer. There is a large ecotourism industry and for good reason. The area is home to many easy (and hard hikes) & pretty rivers. We only spent a day in the area, but I can easily see spending 2-3 days here and enjoying every second of it.

Day 3: Cairngorms National Park Area

Things to do:

Walk around Aviemore. There are some neat outdoorsy shops
Hike around Loch an Eilein (must do!) This hike (a stroll really- it is flat all the way around the lake) is a peaceful walk around a stunning lake. The trail might take 1 1/2-3 hours depending on your walking speed. One of the top attractions at this lake is the tiny castle that sits in the middle of the loch.
Lunch at Rothiemurchus- there are a few options to choose from here. The Barn has some very Scottish (and very good) soup options. The drive from Loch an Eilein to Rothiemurchus was through the forest and farms for about 15 minutes.

Views from Loch An Eilien

Our time in the Cairngorms was far too short for what the region has to offer. If we had stayed longer, the west side of the park has attractions I’d easily return to see. Travelers can visit Balmoral (Queen Elizabeth’s favorite castle) and hike in the surrounding areas. As our day here was short, we hopped back in the car and circled up to Inverness and Loch Ness. For such a famed loch, I honestly was not super impressed (maybe because we did not have any Nessi sightings.) The lake itself was not the most dynamic scenery that Scotland has to offer, but nonetheless pretty in its own stark way. This is not a stop I would make again unless I had loads of time. But since we did drive up that way, we did a quick lake tour on the eastern side of the lake. The water is dark and eerie which lends itself to heightening one’s belief in the lore that shrouds this loch….

Day 4: Drive through the Highlands + Isle of Skye

The first few days in Scotland were no doubt lovely. But nothing could beat the time we spent in the Scottish highlands in the days to follow.

We started our day with a full Scottish breakfast at our accommodations on Loch Ness. With full stomachs, we embarked on the scenic drive on Highway A87 from the southern end of Loch Ness towards the Isle of Skye. Though the highlands are nearly overwhelmingly green, fresh blooms of purple and orange heather were scattered about the hillsides.

Quant stops along the drive include:

The Clog and Craft shop! Here you can find wonderful handmade leather goods and furs. I bought myself some handmade wooden and leather clogs.
Pull out to view Loch Cluanie. Stop here and walk down to the Loch for some iconic highland views.
A good road trip is not complete without some good snacks. The Landour Bakehouse will provide a perfect respite from the drive with scrumptious treats. The bakery is across from a hotel that sits starkly against the barren landscape which stands out in wonderful cozy grandeur.

Before we crossed the bridge to the Isle of Skye, we pulled the car over to a pull-out about a quarter of a mile before Eilean Donan Castle. The timing was just right as the sun peaked out from the clouds for what seemed like the first time that day and bestowed its rays on the castle. The castle gleamed against the deep green hills.

The best view of the castle can be found at this pull-out (57.270392, -5.508953).

Much ground had already been covered, but it felt the day was truly just getting started. The first stop on the Isle of Skye was Portree, the famed town with colorful homes along the small bay. If you get the chance to visit the Isle of Skye, I’d recommend booking a stay near Portree, as it’s a great jumping-off point for many of the key places to see on the Isle. The town center is lined with shops with goods from local artisans, bakery, and restaurants.

My family has always been keen to stop at grocery stores during our travels and pick up the necessary items to make sandwiches (plus some treats like chocolate to nibble on after a hike). For lunch, we did indeed make a grocery store stop, built some sandwiches, and we found a good view of the colorful homes.

Our legs were stiff from the morning drive, but that was soon to be resolved. Winding and narrow roads lead us up the northwest side of the Isle to the trailhead of The Old Man and the Storr Hike- one of Scotland's most famed and picturesque hikes. This hike isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s about 1,170 ft of gain over a 1.7-mile trail up (3.4 total miles).

Out of breath and sweaty, we made our way slowly to the top of the hike. Our jackets were soaking wet as we seemed to walk in and out of clouds. Yet, when we got to the top a spectacular view of wizard-like rock formations and views of the sea awaited us. The wind whipped wickedly over the top of the knob we stood on as we took in the view. The Old Man and the Storr hike was easily one of my top 3 favorite things we did on our whole trip.

Day 5: Journey from Isle of Skye to Glencoe

The time we spent on the Isle of Skye was far too short for what this gem has to offer. One could easily spend three days there and still not scratch the surface of the beauty and mystery the Isle has to offer. However, our trip was packed and the road beckoned us onward. Day 5 was mainly spent driving from the Isle of Skye to the Glenco region of the highlands. We had many stops planned along the drive on highway A830 such as Glenfinnan Viaduct (more famously known as the Harry Potter Train Bridge) and many beachy pullouts.

Scotland is not a nation one visits for a fine culinary experience. I can say honestly most of the food we had was nothing to write home about. But before our departure from the Isle of Skye, we did stop at a coffee shop that was worth writing home about.

Along the main road, there stood a shack that had been rejuvenated into a little coffee shop with scrumptious toasties (breakfast sammies) pastries, and coffee. The food and the vibe at Lean To Coffee was fantastic and truly the culinary highlight of the whole trip. I appreciated the unique use of space and the time taken to curate the fine fair.

The plates were wiped clean and coffee was taken down to the last sip. We got back in the car to head toward Glenco. To avoid backtracking and taking the long way around, we took a ferry from Amerdale to Mallaig. After getting off the ferry we took Highway A830 around to the Harry Potter bridge and stopped at the Silver Sands of Morar. True to their name, the sands were indeed silver and would have been an incredible spot to spend a sunny afternoon picnicking and prancing in the clear waters.

The train passes over Glenfinnan Viaduct at 10:45 and 3:15 each day so plan your trip accordingly. By chance we happened to be there a few minutes before the train was going to pass. We scrambled to a view point just above the parking lot. If you have more time to plan your day around spotting the train, I would recommend also taking the time to walk past the bridge and find a spot on the hillside facing back towards the water. You will get a more elevated view and see the curvature of the bridge better which will make this spot much more recognizable!

We bade farewell to Harry Potter on his way to Hogwarts for another year of learning witchcraft and wizardry and the got back on our way. After a quick stop at Fort William for lunch we arrived in Glenco at last. The hotel we stayed at for this night was my favorite of the trip. Check out the Isles of Glencoe Hotel for a great location and pleasant stay. The hotel has great views, good amenities, and trendy fairly up-to-date rooms.

We had seen and done a lot in the last few days so a quick nap was necessary. After resting our eyes and body for an hour or so my mom, sister, and I did a quick Google search to find a hike to fill the rest of the afternoon and evening. With Scotland being pretty far north, summer days are long and prime for traversing the dynamic landscape of this nation.

Just up the road from our hotel was an easy hike with a smattering of good views. Signal Rock and An Torr could have easily been home to many hidden woodland creatures and magical beings. The mind could easily wonder as the feet moved the bodies through this quiet forest.

Stomachs started to grumble again after the stroll through the woods. I turned left out of the parking lot, drove for about 1 minute, and turned left again to drive down a narrow road running parallel to a bubbling brook. A cozy-looking hotel and pub was nestled along the road. Upon entering the Boots Bar we were greeted by a traditional warm Scottish pub with neat art. The menu was full of traditional Scottish dishes and a bar menu of local brews. We played some games as our food was prepared.

The food was scarfed down and we kept going down the narrow road back to our hotel. The road shot out into the “downtown” of Glenco which was a humble assortment of buildings.

My night ended with a peaceful stroll around the grounds of the hotel. Though the sun had not made much of an appearance during the day, the clouds finally broke and gave way to a golden hour that illuminate the highlands in a magical way. This was the best sunset during the whole trip and the passing sunlight was much appreciated.

Day 6: Height of the Highlands

Our time in Scotland was coming to a close and we started to turn down the road back to Edinburgh. The first section of the drive from Glencoe to the more populated part of the country wound through massive rolling hills whose green tops seemed to touch the sky. One does not find them selves driving long stretches through the highlands as there are far too many good places to spot and wonder. Stops included:

Three sisters viewpoint- a vast valley lays before you here at this view. You can park and take any of the trails down into the valley to immerse yourself in the scenery
About halfway through the valley drive we got out and lay in the warm grass, basking in the sun at this pull-out. This is also the trailhead to a good hike up one of the striking hills
Easy trail to a bridge over a quaint creek- this pull-off is a great place to stop if you are looking for an easy stretch of the legs. There is an old stone bridge and easily attainable views on this walk. If you feel so inclined you can take this trail down to the pull-out listed above.
Before you leave The Highlands behind you, you must pull off and drive down Glen Etive. This road was made famous by Skyfall, the James Bond movie. The road is used as the road that Bond drives to get back to his family home. We stopped and picnicked along the way. A large creek runs along the crevice of the valley. On a warm day, this would be an ideal place to have a quick dip and spend some time sunbathing on the rocks. Glen Etive is also a stellar place to camp if you are driving a campervan around the country.

Day 7: Wrapping up Scotland + Travel day

Day 7 was a transitional day in our trip. We stopped for the night in Callander, a relatively unassuming town. However, our lodging was a lovely little bed and breakfast run by a sweet young couple. If you are in the area, try and stay at Ben A’an House! The owners have newly renovated this spot into a beautiful spot to rest your head. Freshly made breakfast in the mornings is a highlight.

There were a few hours to kill before going to the airport. A quick Google search informed us of some bike trails in a nearby town called Aberfoyle. Once arriving and finding a bike rental shop I asked the friendly bike rental guy how hilly the ride was going to be. He responded, “No, this area is not that hilly- the ride should be pretty easy. “Well, for my little legs, there were more hills than expected and we had to stop and change clothes before getting to the airport as we all got rather sweaty on our bike ride. My mom made the right call with the E-bike.

After arriving at the airport and a quick flight to the nearby island, we found ourselves in Ireland to start the second leg of the trip.

Day 8: Dublin to Dingle

The drive from Dublin to Dingle is quite a ways and took up most of our day when we added in some stops. While it was nice to see some of the middle of the country, the day was longer than expected.

At last, we arrived in Dingle and checked into our hotel called The Base and it provided not only a great place to freshen up before strolling the town, but an incredibly central location to enjoy what the town of Dingle offers. So after freshening up at said hotel, we did just that- saw what Dingle had to offer. There was a smattering of artisan shops lining Dingle’s coastal streets. After popping into a few and procuring some woolen Irish goods, my mom, sister, and I walked down to the waterfront to take in the smells and sights of dingle at sunset which made its way through the clouds.

But the true gem of Dingle is their music nightlife. The pubs are riddled with live Irish music that gets you stomping your feet and singing along. There is hardly any need to ask anyone where to find the places to go… you can hear them from these streets! I’d highly recommend planning on a later night out and enjoying the tunes in Dingle.

Day 9: Dingle Peninsula

The morning we spent on the Dingle Peninsula was magical. You could easily convince me to go back and spend a week in a cottage on the coast here!

Naturally, the day started with a latte for my mom and me, hot chocolate for Rae, and a stop at the grocery store down the street to stock up on provisions for the day. The car was loaded and we set our sites on the going out to the point on the famed Dingle Peninsula. Some of the best views from the whole trip awaited us that day. You could probably plan your day on the peninsula minute by minute, but we filled our time with a few planned stops and then a few just as joyous unplanned stops. Must-sees are:

Coumeenoole Beach- this beach looks like you went through a portal over to the coast of central California. Early in the morning, you will find surfers catching waves on a beach with breathtaking views.
Dunmore head loop- you can start this hike from the parking lot for Coumeenoole Beach. You will find what seems like a modest sheep trail leading you up the cliffside for stunning views. The claim to fame for this hike is some scenes from one of the new Star Wars movies were filmed here (in fact the Dingle Peninsula and Kerry Peninsula have a lot of filming sites for Star Wars!)
Cé Dhún Chaoin / Dunquin Pier- The pier seems like something straight out of Game of Thrones. While I hope you get to enjoy Dingle on a sunny day, dark clouds and rain elevate the feel of this pier to something from a fantasy novel.
View Point Waymont- Don’t just stop and admire the view! Walk out to Waymont Point while you are here for even better views. The wind is likely to be whipping around the corner which only adds to the adventure.

Truly any stop along the Shea Head drive will be a marvel and worth your while!

We ended the day on the other side of the peninsula at Inch beach. When the waves are right, this would be a wonderful spot for beginner surfers to catch some waves. For us, we took a nap in the car with the sound of the waves rolling in.

This beach is a cheerful spot- it looks like somewhere the family in the movie “About Time” would holiday. People pull their cars on the beach as the sand is flat and packed. Day camps are set up and kids dot the beach running around throwing balls.

Day 10: Kerry Peninsula

Our time in Dingle was far too short. It would have been wonderful to have another night filled with cheerful live Irish music but the road kept going and us with it. The sun departed from us yet again and most of the day’s drive was covered in rain. Perhaps it was poor planning or a lack of time, but we made much fewer stops on the Kerry ring drive (google this to find great stops along the way, as there are- we just did not do them). One could very easily allocate 2-3 days for a grand tour of the Kerry Peninsula.

Our drive took us through small towns, along narrow coastal cliff sides roads (in which my mother was very nervous for me to be driving along), and seaside attractions. Highlights of the day were:

Breakfast at Emilies in Glenbeigh- even though it was hardly 9 AM, I got a sandwich off the lunch menu and it was scrumptious. Can’t go wrong with any items on the menu here. I’d recommend filling a bag full of sweet and savory pastries to sustain you throughout your long day’s drive.
Rossbeigh Beach- Wait! Don’t eat your breakfast from Emilies yet. Take the short drive down the hill to Rossbeigh Beach and have a short breakfast picnic on the massive beach boulders and admire the long stretch of shortline in front of you!

Geokaun Mountain and Cliffs on Valentia Island were not only a great place to get out and take a short stroll, but were long views of churning water and windblown cliffsides.
Derrynane Beach- This stop might have been the highlight of our time in Ireland. I had originally not marked this beach as a place to stop. But from the Com an Chiste Ring of Kerry Lookout and Car Park we spied sparking blue water and light sands. A narrow road with trees hanging over it leads down to the most idyllic beach that would be the perfect setting for any cozy holiday by the sea Irish hallmark movie (if that genre even exists). In the summer it’s quite crowded and the local Irish folks who are not afraid of swimming in relatively chilly water will be found bobbing in the crystal clear water. I’d recommend strolling over the side of the beach with ruins of an abby. It’s quieter and offers a peaceful spot to lounge by the sea. We ended up spending a couple of hours here just walking around collecting shells, swimming, and admiring the cute families also enjoying a peaceful day the the beach. After drying off from a cold swim, we bought a fresh sweet crêpe from the lady selling them in the parking lot.

Day 10: Drive back to Dublin

Our time in Ireland came to an end all too quickly. Combining the trip to Ireland and Scotland was a great way to optimize one flight across the pond, but an eager traveler could spend multiple weeks in both countries. The rich history and gritty landscape offers much to see. After driving the Ring of Kerry we stayed in Killarney which was a quaint town and deserved more time than we could give it. The next day we took the long way to Dublin and cut through the Wicklow Mountains with the Glendalough Round Tower as the main attraction.

This popular spot is among travelers and for good reason. The tower and the surrounding lands look like they could be grounds for an Irish storybook tail. We took a walk down to the lake and back. Deer and ducks were spotted along the way (perhaps my eyes were not good enough to spot the fairies that might have been lurking in the forest.)

I could have ended the blog there with an Irish goodbye, but to summarize: this 2 week road trip around Scotland and Ireland with my mom and sister was a true joy. The land is green and filled with history. If you are thinking of planning a trip to either I say GO FOR IT! After roaming many miles in both countries my top recommendations are to spend lots of time on the Isle of Skye in Scotland and on the Dingle and Kerry Peninsula in Ireland.

Till next time and as the Irish say, Slán leat.

Raleigh Woods